More country-hopping: the only map I had covered the Netherlands rather than Germany, so that was the route we took. I couldn’t find a German one in either of Emmerich’s two bookshops; both were staffed solely by elderly women who knew their stock inside out, but the stock itself didn’t suggest Emmerich was a town of avid readers. Vreden, on the other hand, has a comprehensive bookshop run by several younger staff – just one of the things (along with a formal, family-run hotel) that suggests Vreden is a bit better off than Emmerich.

I experienced rain for the first time in weeks. I suppose I should be glad for sake of the garden – but not for my holiday! It was drizzly and not too dreadful, but it cast a slight pall over a rather uninteresting ride. Which is not to say I didn’t enjoy it – but I note that I’ve taken no photographs today.