Vreden to Ruurlo

Suddenly the sun is shining and yesterday’s irritatingly roundabout route is today’s pleasant pootling. We have left Germany behind, and this little corner of the Netherlands is charming. Tree-lined roads and unexpected discoveries – like today’s agricultural museum which also offered Koffie en Appelgebak along with hens to hoover up the crumbs. Ruurlo has a castle which houses the Museum of Modern Realism – an art gallery rather than a philosophical institution, I have discovered.

And tonight we are staying in one of those late 19th-century/early 20th-century brick-built Dutch buildings that I love.

Darfeld to Vreden

Schloss Darfeld

The 100 Schlösser Route extends its tentacles in this part of NRW so broadly that it’s difficult not to intersect with it, but I’m pretty sure I haven’t seen Schloss Darfeld before.

Then to Vreden, cutting out some of the unnecessary loops of our chosen cycle route. It wasn’t so pleasant a day nor so interesting a route that taking the direct option didn’t seem preferable. The last section from Stadtlohn to Vreden was just right – not quite direct but not so ridiculously circumlocutious as to be annoying.

Münster to Darfeld

Haus Vögeding

It was wonderful not to be pinned down by strong headwinds – to feel that turning the pedals did actually propel you forward. In fact I got so carried away by the sense of momentum that I misnavigated badly, adding about 10km to our day simply because the path surface was so smooth and I was bowling along so smoothly. Hubris!

A familiar ride out of Münster, passing the Haus Spital cemetery and Haus Vödeging again. The last few kilometres into Darfeld were particularly satisfying – a long hill of just the right gradient, views and then an easy couple of kilometres to our destination.

Warendorf to Münster

Another short ride into a stiff headwind. Cycling steadily in a low gear at 6 or 7mph becomes unremarkable. The wind had brought down a tree that almost blocked our path, but we walked underneath bent double – with an ear cocked for sounds of splintering trees close at hand. Münster, as we know, is an easy city to cycle into, so navigation was easy. And we arrived at our hotel on the outskirts shortly before the forecast rain arrived.

Marienfeld to Warendorf

This morning we said goodbye to the Hellweg-Weser and hello to a short section of the R1 that will take us to Arnhem. This is also part of the Ems Radweg, so it was nice to encounter the river again after following it for some days in May.

Even by our new-normal standards, this was a short day. The weather forecast was for a strong headwind and very strong gusts, so the idea of reaching Münster in one day was shelved. It was a pleasant ride nonetheless so long as you didn’t get hit by flying acorns, with – in deference to the distance – just the one cake for me today. At Warendorf we picked up the 100 Schlösser Route once again, and the Markt was a familiar sight from our previous visit. I had time to wander around the town – very well-kept and quiet, with cars kept out of the centre (and hence lots of bicycles).

I’ve forgotten to mention all the apple and pears trees beside the roads; scrumping is the norm, and it’s noticeable how all the easy-to-reach fruit has been picked. Beneath each tree is a mushy pile of windfalls.

Bielefeld to Marienfeld

Finally a completely dry day. Not that it’s been properly wet, but we’ve had a few brief showers every day on this Radweg. It was a fairly unmemorable ride – it was enough simply to be cycling in sunshine on very quiet roads. I heard buzzards several times. The oddest thing was intersecting with a cycle race; the roads were closed, but we were able to use them so long as we kept out of the way. Which I did – feeling like a laden donkey compared to the sleek thoroughbreds that whizzed past me at frightening speeds.

South of Bielefeld I finally saw a signpost for the Hellweg-Weser route. And then they ran out again.

Lemgo to Bielefeld

It’s clear we’ve changed Länder from Lower Saxony to North Rhine Westphalia: not only are there roadside crucifixes, but every lamppost proclaims its allegiance for tomorrow’s local elections. In Lemgo there were stalls for the main parties at the marketplace: AfD (young), Greens (young and old, offering apples) and the Free Democrats (whom I didn’t see). The political billboards are interesting if one puts one’s own views on ice: lots of “vote for me” head-and-shoulders photos with three-word slogans and very locally focussed, sometimes only on show in one village. One placard, for example, referred to the one-street village we were riding through; another said that all villages need a meeting place. It was a bit like having posters of local councillors for town wards plastered up – a bizarre thought to someone used to only a third of voters turning out for British local elections. The word “strong” appeared regularly. Other posters referred to more national concerns: poverty, security, economic growth, re/migration. I saw one AfD poster that suggested that Hermann would have voted for them; we were close to the Teutoburger Wald after all. (I wondered who Boudicca would have voted for.) One CDU billboard against high parking charges appeared only in streets full of residential parking. In the countryside posters against wind turbines were noticeable. (There are a lot of wind turbines around here.) The Die Partei satirical posters are mildly amusing at first glance but hardly constructive. AfD posters faded away the closer we got to Bielefeld – just as I noticed in last year’s EU elections, when there was a big divide between Münster and the surrounding agricultural land. In the centre of Bielefeld there were rival demonstrations in Jahnplatz as we arrived.

The ride was pleasant enough and quite short. We are staying on the hillside above Bielefeld; it should be a great view, but trees obscure practically everything apart from the busy ring road. Once again, I haven’t had a chance to explore – but it’s a cycling holiday, so I can’t have everything.