Lügde to Lemgo

Another repeat ride – although I only remembered the middle section after Blomberg. Long gentle uphills and downhills amongst open fields with wooded hills in the background. The lack of hedgerows and the presence of trees mark it out as “not England”. I enjoyed the hills, even though I had to walk up one: it’s good to know that my legs and lungs are up to it, and it’s really satisfying to be rewarded with some easy freewheeling kilometres.

Sometimes I try to translate into England the places where we stop for Kaffee and Kuchen; today was “Greggs in a Bargain Booze warehouse on a busy crossroads”. And it was fine.

From last time I know how interesting Lemgo is, but we arrived too late for me to walk around. (My goodness, but we are slow!) It was a Hansa town on the intersection of two trading routes, so it has some fine merchants’ houses and a magnificent Rathaus, along with yet another Weser Renaissance castle – Schloss Brake – that I photographed and will never get to see the inside of.

Hameln to Lügde

A route we have cycled before but I didn’t recognise everything. The truncated railway bridge in Hameln and the Weser looked familiar, but this time we passed right in front of Hämelschenburg (which made me wonder which wrong turning I’d taken the previous time to miss it). Sadly we passed it in the rain and with no chance of stopping.

As for the rest of the ride – uppy-downy and pleasant. The sun came out in Bad Pyrmont and I was able to admire a bit of Jugendstil. The heydays of spa towns seem to have passed by; hotels looked grand from the outside, but missing letters and peeling paint suggest they find business hard. The once-smart hotel where we stopped for coffee – right opposite the Kurpark – looked downright shabby inside.

And now in Lüdge in another hotel that might be finding business hard with so many more options open to travellers. We are the only guests and the only diners – and our meal was delicious.

Before we left the Weser, there was a national emergency alert practice. Sirens started sounding and then one mobile starting buzzing madly. Had I not been aware of the practice alert in the UK on Sunday, I would have been totally perplexed. (My own Bakelite mobile received notification of the UK one beforehand, but it was far too underpowered to receive the alert itself.) With the news of Russian drones over Poland in the last couple of days, I had been wondering about world affairs – so this alert was slightly unsettling. I do hope WWIII doesn’t start while I’m on holiday! But, on the plus side, I guess I could be said to have my “emergency grab bag” (actually two panniers and a bar bag) all ready, plus some nice clean clothes for the end of the world.

And it may happen sooner for me than I think. I can’t cope with German numbers any more! Twice so far I’ve been knocked down by prices being fired at me. I just stand there bewildered while somebody repeats “vierundzwanzigfünfundzneunzig” or something – and I can’t work it out any more!

Hameln

Hull to Hannover to Hameln via Rotterdam Centraal and Amsterdam Centraal. There were times – most notably on Minden platform at 8 p.m. yesterday when we were all turfed off the Amsterdam-Berlin train – when I thought we might not get here. I’d had an ominous feeling about that train ever since Rheine when the Dutch train crew announced that the German train crew had been delayed. But heigh ho: it gave us an opportunity to recollect other times when that train route has let us down. The holiday where we never got to Berlin at all is in first place, but the most memorable is the one where I was definitely not going to let anything get in the way of seeing Radio Kootwijk.

We got to Hannover only an hour late, and today we cycled to Hameln. Hannover holds lots of memories as the start and end point for cycle rides plus the time I saw Tosca at the opera house. We left via the Maschsee – and suddenly all yesterday’s hassle was worth it. Then cross country to Springe and finally Hameln. As we headed into the countryside (enormous, featureless fields with hills in the distance and an horizon bristling with pylons and wind turbines) I wondered why I was making such heavy weather of cycling. I haven’t done this for a while, but it really felt as if I was pedalling with the brakes in. I finally twigged that we were pedalling gently uphill (well, doh, we were moving from one river to another, the Leine to the Weser), and after Springe we had our reward with easy stretches on gentle downhill gradients.

Not many photographs – much as I was pleased to experience the sense of space, it really doesn’t photograph well. Towards the end I stopped to photograph starlings threaded onto a pylon.

We arrived too late for me to walk round Hameln, but I have been here before. I liked the sights of timber-framed houses with their decorations in the villages around Hameln; they reminded me of the Weser Renaissance style.

The headline in a newspaperI spotted in Hannover referred to the reduction in numbers of young people with professional/occupational qualifications. I guess that is of concern in such a high-maintenance country as Germany.

Emmerich am Rhein to Arnhem

Instead of ending a holiday as usual with Emmerich to Nijmegen into a headwind, today we did Emmerich to Arnhem into a headwind. With some rain. It was pleasant beside the river and, once the weather changed, an easy ride into the centre of Arnhem. Like Utrecht, Arnhem has direct cycle routes that are heavily used: the roundabout at Airborneplein was particularly hectic. Quite fun to watch, but less fun to be part of. My kind of pootling is really not suited to Dutch city cycling, and it was a bit of a shock to find myself part of it again.

Despite Arnhem’s importance during WWII, the centre looks largely undestroyed. I had time to wander around once we had checked in, but without a map or any idea of what to see. Still enjoyable though. And they have trolley busses.

Heek to Winterswijk

Well, Schützenfesters certainly know how to party. They didn’t keep me awake, but when I opened the window at 1.30 a.m. the marquee down the road was still jiving. The church clock struck at 5.30 a.m. and I swear I could hear the brass band playing somewhere. As I dressed, somebody was singing alleluia several times over to the accompaniment of the band outside the church. Our breakfast was slightly delayed by the waitress having to serve a few beers . . . and the first parade of the day started just as we were leaving. I really don’t know what to make of it: history, community spirit, unsettling vibes under the cheerful booziness, the self-deprecating silliness of carrying wooden sticks (representing rifles?) topped with flowers so that they looked like a morris-dancing local militia. Had I lived in the town during the Thirty Years War, I might have been glad if a group of trained men were ready to defend it – and perhaps there were similar groups in Ukraine until three years ago.

The rest of the day was a return ride unto the Netherlands in hot sunshine and a gentle headwind. Piet Mondrian lived in Winterswijk for a time, but that is as much as I know.

Papenburg to Heek

Back to a boring maximum speed of about 22 kph, so to do this distance we needed the assistance of the train from Papenburg to Rheine. The usual anxiety about getting our bikes on the train, so I checked with the ticket office beforehand. (A ticket office: there’s luxury.) Question: where was the bike space? Answer: each carriage has bike spaces front and back. Total number of bikes conveyed: 24. (More in the summer holiday season.) This seemed like riches indeed – but the reality is that if a train has 24 bike spaces, there will be 23 bicycles on it – particularly if it’s the day after Himmelfahrt. We had no problem at Papenburg, but the train quickly filled up.

We cycled the same route out of Rheine as a week ago along the easy-peasy disused railway, but this time into a sunny headwind. Heek is en fête – nice for Heek but not for anyone hoping for an early night. It’s the town’s Schützenfest – a concept I have difficulty in getting my head around. Schützen means to protect, but this kind of thing is all about guns and shooting. I suppose I should think of it as a celebration of the historical tradition of local self-protection – an early kind of Home Guard perhaps? – and target-shooting is part of it. Also included is parading in green jackets and dark green ties behind a local band – and lots of drinking.

We arrived in Heek in good time so headed off in nostalgic mood along the 100 Schlösser Route to see Burg Nienborg. How many have we ticked off now?