Cherry Tree to Darwen

I’d bought my ticket to Darwen and was on the railway platform before I realised that my Bakelite mobile hadn’t picked up the message about the group walk being called off because of train cancellations.

So I went for a walk anyway. I didn’t have a map but I did have my ipad, the OS app and perhaps enough charge to keep me on the right track. I decided the best route under the circumstances was to get off at Cherry Tree station and follow the Witton Weavers Way to Darwen station.

It looked fine on the app, but an enormous housing estate is under construction between Cherry Tree and the motorway, so I lost my path and followed another one that had been severely narrowed by the construction fence. Then a grim, muddy path sandwiched between the motorway and the kind of farm that is more like a dump.

And then all of a sudden I was enjoying myself. A stile into a little wood, a few streams and a little lane of old houses and all was right with the world. I walked up to Jubilee Tower on Darwen Hill, thinking about parallels between various jubilee towers and Bismarcktürme and wondering how much windier it could get. And then down into Darwen with thoughts of the heavy footprint of Victorian industry around this moorland – the chimneys, the factories, the reservoirs, the grand civic buildings, the ex-quarries turned into public parks, the terraces.

Reflecting on my day afterwards, I thought how appropriate it was that I’d followed the advice of that great Victorian sage, Mr Sleary, and made the “betht” of things.

Hartley Fell

Continuing yesterday’s spirit of being sensible, I decided to walk towards (or even to) Nine Standards on Hartley Fell and back the same way, prepared to turn round if the path was too awful. I could see the stone piles on the skyline as I started up the bridlepath, and it seemed doable.

I almost baulked at a ford but found it manageable. My nemesis was the bridge close to the stones: it was under water and there was no other way without getting waterlogged boots. Since I was finding the walk a bit samey – a long trudge up on bare moorland into increasingly strong winds – I didn’t mind admitting defeat. I found a quiet spot to eat a banana and admire the view and then turned round. I think I saw a barn owl on the way down.

Smardale

I’ve come to Kirkby Stephen to walk, and walk I shall – despite yesterday’s grim storm and today’s wind. Smardale was the sensible option: minor roads and low levels with the guarantee of a really satisfying view of the old railway viaduct. I set off after a breakfast so big that I didn’t bother to stop to eat en route and had an enjoyable day. I saw a red squirrel beside the old railway line and I disturbed a bird in the heather – black with its eye outlined in white, so I’m guessing a black grouse without its mating plumage.

The bare dog rose thorn reminded me of the potential harshness of winter. It’s hard to think of its bleakness when one is used to central heating and filled supermarket shelves.

Gouda

After breakfast I walked around Gouda while it was quiet and dry. It’s stereotypically Dutch – cobbles, canals, gables that look good reflected in those same canals. The town hall, the cheese weighing house, the grote kerk, the fish market arcade beside the canal (like Delft) that I remembered from a previous visit – I walked round them all.

I caught the train to Rotterdam (a headwind and memories of the dull ride decided me) and started cycling from there, and now I’m in Maassluis again.

Amersfoort to Gouda

Another day of two halves: a morning ride through sandy woodlands that encouraged me to linger, followed by an afternoon of hard pedalling into a drizzly headwind as I misnavigated and realised that I still had miles to go. The wind is getting stronger and colder too; I turned right towards Oudewater and suddenly moved from a gruelling 7mph to an exhilarating – oooh! – 10mph or so as the wind caught my back.

At Zeist there was a big castle that I skirted round. Lots of forts south of Utrecht, and Nieuwegein and Ijsselstein had pretty old centres when I finally got through all their outskirts. I only really have time to stop for coffee and cake, but I did make exceptions for an undulating hedge dusted with fallen leaves and the biggest gathering of coots I’ve ever seen in one place. I had them down as unsociable birds: how wrong I was.

And so to Gouda. The light was fading as I arrived so I had no time to explore. In the evening I wandered out in search of something to eat; turning a corner, I suddenly found myself in the main square.

Zutphen to Amersfoort

The tasting menu thing stretched to breakfast, which was definitely taking things too far! I had a full day’s cycling ahead and I wanted food, not dainty morsels displayed on stones and marble chips. Particularly not when the tastes include curry soup and goat’s cheese. Not flavours you want haunting you as you pedal along.

Unsurprisingly, I stopped at the first bakery I saw.

Zutphen is on the River Ijssel, which was very close to my hotel. Another pleasant – if damp and grey – ride through the sandy woodland and heath of the Veluwe.

It’s inevitable that I cross or repeat former rides as I cycle between Germany and Dutch ports. Today it was Building A of the transmitting station at Radio Kootwijk (1920) that got the second visit. This time I got the reflection in the reflecting pool. As I pedalled off I wondered if there was anything similar in Britain – Alexandra Palace, some of those place names on old radio dials like Droitwich? But actually I really don’t know the difference between a transmitting station, a radio mast and radio studios.

Once again, I realised I’d left myself with a lot to do in the afternoon. I arrived at my hotel at 4.30 p.m. with my lights on. It’s on the edge of Amersfoort, run by the International School for Philosophy. Each room is named after a philosopher: mine is Jean-Paul Sartre. As I walked along the corridor, past Wittgenstein, John Stuart Mill, Plato, Aristotle and Descartes, I found myself humming Bruces’ Philosophers Song from Monty Python.