Wark

With the derailment at Shap, I had to come to Wark via Leeds and Newcastle, which gave me the opportunity to have a cup of coffee amongst the Burmantofts splendour of The Centurion bar on Newcastle station. I’ve come for walking and star-gazing, but the weather may rain on both those ambitions.

I arrived shortly after 2, dumped my case and set off to explore Wark and look at the Tyne (high and fast-flowing). I picked up a leaflet at reception and ended up doing a circuit on minor roads with only a camera, an umbrella and a torch. Fortunately the weather stayed dry and I got back before dark, having discovered another disused railway line (the North British Railway). It feels satisfying to be exploring somewhere new.

Sizergh Castle

I almost went to Sizergh on Monday, but the castle itself was closed and that was what I have been meaning to visit. It closes for the season at the end of this week, so – even though it’s half term – today was my only chance unless I was going to let the wish dangle for another couple of years.

I should have chosen my time better, but heigh ho. (The kids were fine; it was the adults I could have done without!) Sizergh Castle is a pele tower with a later Tudor house. The Strickland family have lived there for centuries and given their name to a few pubs and streets. The castle is quite small and most of the visitable rooms are panelled in what is now very dark wood. The panels of the inlaid chamber were sold to the V&A at the end of the 19th century, but they have found their way back. Some wonderful plasterwork ceilings and lots of portraits – in some cases blurring time by showing side by side the grandparents as young people and their grandchildren as elderly, as if illustrating Einstein’s theory of relativity and Burnt Norton simultaneously.

Grange to Levens

As I listened to the heavy rain last night, I wondered if my plan of walking over two limestone (slippery when wet) outcrops from Grange to Kendal was a sensible one. But I’d set my alarm, checked the bus timetable and had my sandwiches, so I wasn’t going to be put off.

At Grange-over-Sands I checked the poetry post – again while en route for a bakewell slice – and decided to let that be my guide. So my route skirted the foot of Whitbarrow Scar and avoided Scout Scar completely by turning south at Levens through Brigsteer Woods. A good, circumspect walk: “not fast, not slow, but sure”.

Saltaire

Leeds, Shipley, Saltaire, a walk around Shipley Glen and along the Aire and the canal – then back to Saltaire, Shipley, Leeds. A lovely day, and I discovered the Shipley tramway. It was so short a line that I couldn’t imagine its purpose. I have since discovered that it is a funicular tramway built simply, in bygone times, to take people to funfair attractions at the top of the hill.

Maassluis to Europoort

The usual route through Brielle back to Europoort. After years of alternating between “German” and “French” pronunciations I have finally discovered how to pronounce it as the Dutch do. This time I visited St Catherine’s Church: I was drawn there by wondering if it was unfinished or half-demolished (the former). I was rewarded for my curiosity by discovering that from the church tower the future Mary II waved off her husband, the future William III, as he set off to overthrow James II. (Sadly, time did not allow me to retrace her steps.)

Doesburg to Arnhem

We crossed the Ijssel, headed into the Veluwezoom National Park – and promptly got separated. We have a protocol which has worked well enough in the past – go back to the last point we saw each other and use our phones. Problems this time: one phone (no, not mine) was dead . . . and, actually, what happens if you have two different memories of where you last saw each other? We were waiting for each other in different places. In the end I flagged down passing cyclists and sent them forth to look out for a lost tourer. After almost an hour we were reunited thanks to Roberto, a racing cyclist who had turned round and halved his pace to return the missing sheep to the fold. Swallowing annoyance, I reflected on the helpfulness I had encountered.. I had stopped several people, obliged them to speak to me in a foreign language and burdened them with a plea for assistance.

Needless to say, the phone was recharged as soon as we reached Arnhem.

It was a lovely ride through undulating woods on serpentine cyclepaths. In some places Highland cattle roamed freely and rather hogged the paths. Our route into Arnhem was largely downhill through pleasant residential streets of traditional-style 20th-century buildings. Shortly before the station we came to a block of rather interesting buildings which I walked back to look at afterwards. I learned afterwards that they were all by local architect, Willem Diehl.