Maiden Castle

Very roughly, for even some of the museum labels differ – and other countries’ dates of the eras may differ as Britain was rather behind the times then:

  • 10,000 years ago – end of the last Ice Age and stabilisation of temperatures
  • 500000 – 4000 BC – Mesolithic and Paleaolithic
  • 4000 – 3000 BC – Early Neolithic
  • Causeway enclosure of Maiden Castle
  • 3600 BC – construction of West Kennet Long Barrow
  • 3000 BC – raised ditch of Stonehenge
  • 2600 – ditch and mound at Avebury and stones erected later
  • 2500 BC stones erected at Stonehenge
  • 3000 – 2200 BC – Late Neolithic
  • 2400 – 2200 BC – arrival of Beaker (Yamnaya) People from continental Europe
  • 2200 – 800 BC – Bronze Age (mixture of copper and tin)
  • 1500 BC – use of Stonehenge falls away
  • 800 BC – 43 AD – Iron Age
  • 450 – 300 BC – Maiden Castle hill fort
  • Trendle enclosure above Cerne Abbas
  • And then the Romans came to Rye and out to Severn strode . . .

The earthworks cover an enormous area. Another site I’ve longed to visit for decades*, but actually the best view of it is from the air. However, on the ground you can appreciate the size and aggressively defensive design of the rampart. Up on the mound (and it’s big enough for you to lose your sense of direction), you have wonderful views, including Poundbury, which almost looked interesting with its varied skyline and quite dense building, and a small barrow, which erupted from the field like a pimple.

The Romans took over the site once they arrived, so there was a fourth-century Roman temple. Also a kestrel, which was happy to pose for photographs.

* Corfe Castle is also on the list.

Cerne Abbas

Cerne Abbas is perfectly positioned and very dinky. It even has a “sacred spring” complete with modern pagan offerings (not all biodegradable, which seems very unpagan). The Giant – a geoglyphe possibly 1,000 years old – is certainly gigantic, but his outlines have not been refreshed for several years and he is not as visible as you might think/hope.

There was an abbey here; only the guest house and gatehouse survive, for the stones were very quickly sold off or repurposed after the dissolution so there are not even any outline foundations remaining. We stopped briefly at two digs beyond the cemetery; parts of the abbey and possibly an earlier Saxon site are being uncovered where they were not supposed to be, so local history guides will have to be rewritten. (Not holding too fast to theories or even knowledge was my take-away from this trip.)

The Trendle is an Iron Age earthwork above the village and the Giant. Perhaps at that time the water table was much higher, so living on the exposed hill rather than the sheltered, boggy valley might have been preferable. It was impossible to discern anything among the long grass: we spotted gatekeepers and cinnabar moth caterpillars instead.

There are “lumps and bumps” everywhere in this area between Wiltshire and Dorset: long barrows, causeway enclosures, hill forts, mounds of earth whose purpose and secrets remain unknown. Some, once upon a time they would have been gleaming white with newly exposed chalk – but the Giant shows what happens when exposed for too long.