Miniature Worlds

An exhibition where magnifying glasses were supplied. It started, of course, with Thomas Bewick and his tiny, intricate wood engravings. (I recall Jane Eyre’s delight in his illustrations.) Beatrix Potter, Eric Ravilious, Gertrude Hermes stood out. Not a blockbuster exhibition, but I don’t mean to damn it with faint praise when I say that what I enjoyed most was re-reading Peter Rabbit for the first time in almost 60 years.

The Bewick illustration is a little crude, but it reminded me of some of my thoughts as I walked beside Hadrian’s Wall yesterday – wondering if people in the inbetween centuries just thought of it as a bit of ruined wall.

Hadrian’s Wall

Last night I saw the moons of Jupiter and the rings of Saturn for the first time. Also a close-up of the full moon, so large that it barely fitted in the eyepiece. We were very fortunate: it had been so murky a day that I had no expectation of clear skies – and, indeed, everything clouded over again just as we were finishing.

I started today by misreading the bus timetable. A mild, misty day with the promise of sunshine. I definitely didn’t want to wait two hours for another bus so set off on foot for a path that included a “Ford” marked on the map! The route I chose was cautious rather than direct (and, yippee, the dreaded “Ford” was furnished with a footbridge), and I reached Hadrian’s Wall at the Temple of Mithras. I had the impression from the map that this wasn’t a great stretch to walk – close to the road and the sound of traffic – but it was wonderful. I had the path to myself and I wasn’t expecting to come across the short section of wall still standing.

At Chollerford – far too early for the bus to Wark – I decided to catch a bus into Hexham for a coffee and a newspaper and return from there. A quite wonderful 24 hours.

Bellingham

It rained all morning. And was still raining when I caught the noon bus to Bellingham to walk back. I’ve decided against unknown footpaths – and definitely not those marked with “Ford” on the OS map – so, after going inside St Cuthbert’s Church (thick slate roof which must weigh a ton), I walked back to Wark on minor roads.

It didn’t rain, it was mild, there was little wind, and even in the gloom there was an autumnal glow. What’s not to like? Just after my lunch stop I saw something marked as a “Cross” in Gothic letters on the map. Streams were fast-flowing and traffic was very light. I was glad to have been active and interested in my surroundings on so unpromising a day; as I walked along I listed to myself all the reasons that I actually enjoy this.

A Lady And Her Husband by Amber Reeves (1914)

I think I was expecting something more polemical and less measured: an undercurrent of rage rather than a rational, ironic dissection of marriage and capitalism. Not that I minded; there are various ways of turning the spotlight on injustice. Is the title significant? The indefinite article, implying these circumstances apply more widely. “A Lady” comes first and hence the husband becomes her “property” – a reversal of the norm. It’s a book that makes its points subtly – and then I wonder how it was received on publication, when its ideas would have seemed more radical.

It’s about a woman, Mary Heyham, in early middle age whose children are now leading independent lives; to keep her active, she is encouraged by her very modern younger daughter to take an interest in the work conditions of the women employed in the family’s tea shop business. Her husband is a successful, energetic and hard-working man. He’s a good husband, a good father and a good employer and he does indeed love his wife dearly . . .

He went over to her and stroked her hair. That, to his mind, was the use of her hair, and to please him she dressed it in a way that was not easily disarranged.

Ouch! Or:

There was no doubt in her mind that most of the wives she knew understood their husbands thoroughly, thus sparing them the trouble of understanding their wives.

As for the economics of running a business, I couldn’t decide if my fuming reaction to the following was totally anachronistic:

Florrie had come to work in the depot not because she needed work, but because she liked her independence and a bit of fun. She left home at seven sharp, and she got back about ten. She had Sundays off, and alternate Bank Holidays. . . .

Yes, it was perfectly true that the company only took girls who were not dependent on their wages for their living. Not that they gave bad wages, but you couldn’t live as a young lady ought to live on eleven shillings a week, bonus instead of tips, making it up to twelve. The manager thought that was good money, she herself had begun – in another company – as kitchen help at seven shillings, and kitchen work was man’s work, not girl’s work at all.

It reminded me of the time I heard an American (politician? journalist?) on “Any Questions” who stated quite baldly that it wasn’t an employer’s task to pay full-time workers enough to support themselves on. It was a shock to realise that people thought like that today – and set me thinking of the dominance of the cash nexus and how crucial state-mandated fairness is in how we live under today’s system.

Anyway – predictably – it turns out that Florrie does indeed need the work to support herself and her sick mother. The “bit of fun” indirect speech is scathingly ironic. It’s typical of the author that Florrie is eventually shown to be flawed as we all are: there are no Dickensian paragons here.

Reeves focuses clearly and rationally on her topics – cool, light, ironic, as if she was anticipating patronising accusations of being emotional or of exaggerating. Lessons are learned, realities faced and Mary emerges from her cocoon of cultivated ignorance, saddened but ready for a new role.

Wark

With the derailment at Shap, I had to come to Wark via Leeds and Newcastle, which gave me the opportunity to have a cup of coffee amongst the Burmantofts splendour of The Centurion bar on Newcastle station. I’ve come for walking and star-gazing, but the weather may rain on both those ambitions.

I arrived shortly after 2, dumped my case and set off to explore Wark and look at the Tyne (high and fast-flowing). I picked up a leaflet at reception and ended up doing a circuit on minor roads with only a camera, an umbrella and a torch. Fortunately the weather stayed dry and I got back before dark, having discovered another disused railway line (the North British Railway). It feels satisfying to be exploring somewhere new.

Sizergh Castle

I almost went to Sizergh on Monday, but the castle itself was closed and that was what I have been meaning to visit. It closes for the season at the end of this week, so – even though it’s half term – today was my only chance unless I was going to let the wish dangle for another couple of years.

I should have chosen my time better, but heigh ho. (The kids were fine; it was the adults I could have done without!) Sizergh Castle is a pele tower with a later Tudor house. The Strickland family have lived there for centuries and given their name to a few pubs and streets. The castle is quite small and most of the visitable rooms are panelled in what is now very dark wood. The panels of the inlaid chamber were sold to the V&A at the end of the 19th century, but they have found their way back. Some wonderful plasterwork ceilings and lots of portraits – in some cases blurring time by showing side by side the grandparents as young people and their grandchildren as elderly, as if illustrating Einstein’s theory of relativity and Burnt Norton simultaneously.