It rained all morning. And was still raining when I caught the noon bus to Bellingham to walk back. I’ve decided against unknown footpaths – and definitely not those marked with “Ford” on the OS map – so, after going inside St Cuthbert’s Church (thick slate roof which must weigh a ton), I walked back to Wark on minor roads.

It didn’t rain, it was mild, there was little wind, and even in the gloom there was an autumnal glow. What’s not to like? Just after my lunch stop I saw something marked as a “Cross” in Gothic letters on the map. Streams were fast-flowing and traffic was very light. I was glad to have been active and interested in my surroundings on so unpromising a day; as I walked along I listed to myself all the reasons that I actually enjoy this.