Another walk out to the impressive Smardale viaduct.







On the way back I insisted on diverting to the bridge over the old Stainmore railway line, and – yes! – they were steaming. An appropriate and perfect end to the walk.
Another walk out to the impressive Smardale viaduct.







On the way back I insisted on diverting to the bridge over the old Stainmore railway line, and – yes! – they were steaming. An appropriate and perfect end to the walk.
Bus to Warcop on this blisteringly hot day. The plan was to follow the Pennine Journey path to Brough and back to Kirkby Stephen, but progress was inevitably slow. At Little Musgrave we changed to a more direct route – the right decision. I’m disappointed that I didn’t spot the disused railway line over Scandal Beck, but I was restored by seeing children swimming in the river with obvious pleasure. I felt very envious!
It was a day for seeking shade: I liked the silhouette of sheep’s ears as they sheltered under a tree. The cricketers at Kirkby Stephen had no such luxury.








A pleasant, familiar walk along the old railway lines of the South Durham and Lancashire Union Railway.
I’m back in Penrith: always a pleasure, never a chore.


A new bus service has started up in Kirkby Stephen since I was last here, and very useful it is too. I caught it to Wharton Fell and then walked back via Pendragon and Lammerside ruins. The slanting sunshine was beautiful, and I realised how spontaneous a boost it adds to the walk.








Continuing yesterday’s spirit of being sensible, I decided to walk towards (or even to) Nine Standards on Hartley Fell and back the same way, prepared to turn round if the path was too awful. I could see the stone piles on the skyline as I started up the bridlepath, and it seemed doable.
I almost baulked at a ford but found it manageable. My nemesis was the bridge close to the stones: it was under water and there was no other way without getting waterlogged boots. Since I was finding the walk a bit samey – a long trudge up on bare moorland into increasingly strong winds – I didn’t mind admitting defeat. I found a quiet spot to eat a banana and admire the view and then turned round. I think I saw a barn owl on the way down.





I’ve come to Kirkby Stephen to walk, and walk I shall – despite yesterday’s grim storm and today’s wind. Smardale was the sensible option: minor roads and low levels with the guarantee of a really satisfying view of the old railway viaduct. I set off after a breakfast so big that I didn’t bother to stop to eat en route and had an enjoyable day. I saw a red squirrel beside the old railway line and I disturbed a bird in the heather – black with its eye outlined in white, so I’m guessing a black grouse without its mating plumage.





The bare dog rose thorn reminded me of the potential harshness of winter. It’s hard to think of its bleakness when one is used to central heating and filled supermarket shelves.