Hadrian’s Wall

Last night I saw the moons of Jupiter and the rings of Saturn for the first time. Also a close-up of the full moon, so large that it barely fitted in the eyepiece. We were very fortunate: it had been so murky a day that I had no expectation of clear skies – and, indeed, everything clouded over again just as we were finishing.

I started today by misreading the bus timetable. A mild, misty day with the promise of sunshine. I definitely didn’t want to wait two hours for another bus so set off on foot for a path that included a “Ford” marked on the map! The route I chose was cautious rather than direct (and, yippee, the dreaded “Ford” was furnished with a footbridge), and I reached Hadrian’s Wall at the Temple of Mithras. I had the impression from the map that this wasn’t a great stretch to walk – close to the road and the sound of traffic – but it was wonderful. I had the path to myself and I wasn’t expecting to come across the short section of wall still standing.

At Chollerford – far too early for the bus to Wark – I decided to catch a bus into Hexham for a coffee and a newspaper and return from there. A quite wonderful 24 hours.

Bellingham

It rained all morning. And was still raining when I caught the noon bus to Bellingham to walk back. I’ve decided against unknown footpaths – and definitely not those marked with “Ford” on the OS map – so, after going inside St Cuthbert’s Church (thick slate roof which must weigh a ton), I walked back to Wark on minor roads.

It didn’t rain, it was mild, there was little wind, and even in the gloom there was an autumnal glow. What’s not to like? Just after my lunch stop I saw something marked as a “Cross” in Gothic letters on the map. Streams were fast-flowing and traffic was very light. I was glad to have been active and interested in my surroundings on so unpromising a day; as I walked along I listed to myself all the reasons that I actually enjoy this.

Wark

With the derailment at Shap, I had to come to Wark via Leeds and Newcastle, which gave me the opportunity to have a cup of coffee amongst the Burmantofts splendour of The Centurion bar on Newcastle station. I’ve come for walking and star-gazing, but the weather may rain on both those ambitions.

I arrived shortly after 2, dumped my case and set off to explore Wark and look at the Tyne (high and fast-flowing). I picked up a leaflet at reception and ended up doing a circuit on minor roads with only a camera, an umbrella and a torch. Fortunately the weather stayed dry and I got back before dark, having discovered another disused railway line (the North British Railway). It feels satisfying to be exploring somewhere new.