London

I arrived in London early and headed to Walthamstow to the William Morris Gallery for an exhibition of Liberty fabrics by women designers. There were some lovely fabrics – thankfully not all of them florals – and it was interesting to see the changing fashions over the decades. I already had a soft spot for Lucienne Day’s designs, and here I added Althea McNish, Gwenfred Jarvis, Hilda Durkin and Colleen Farr.

Arthur Liberty founded the shop in 1875, initially importing textiles and objets d’art from Asia and the Middle East. It soon moved into designing its own fabrics and helped to popularise the new Arts and Crafts and art nouveau styles. The fabrics were all printed until 1972 at the Merton Abbey Mills, and there was some fascinating film of the designs being block- or screen-printed and then rinsed in the chalk stream by men in their shirt sleeves who had been doing that work for decades. Then came the finished garment – which no doubt cost an arm and a leg to buy. A fascinating bit of social and economic history: design opportunities for talented women (initially anonymous), manufacturing work for local companies, then the sale of the finished goods to the prosperous to adorn their homes and persons – much of that exchange also transacted between women, albeit across a social divide.

After lunch I managed to get the last ticket of the day for the Secret Maps exhibition at the British Library. (It’s the final week of the exhibition, so I was lucky.) It was good at showing the power of maps – particularly at times of war or rivalry. The Dutch East India Company tried to keep secret their world map of 1648, which showed part of the coast of Australia. Even before that, the c 1547-produced map for Henri II showed the outline of a great southern continent. Hand-drawn maps were safer, in terms of reproduction, than engraved maps. Armed or a defenceless locations could be removed from or disguised on maps (at least before aerial photography). Tiny maps or maps printed on materials like silk could be hidden (and worn). There was a wonderful hand-drawn map by T E Lawrence of his route from the Red Sea coast to the Hejaz railway. Clandestine maps of worldwide cable networks, or the chart of radio beans on the Normandy coast to assist the D-Day landings (which later influenced GPS).

The unconsidered power of maps was also revealed – as in the official map of Nairobi, which shows no sign of the vast Kibera informal settlement of perhaps 170,000 people. New rulers give new names to their colonies and territories and divide them as they wish. Certain areas/transport corridors are prioritised over others. (I note how this hierarchy is reversed when I use bike route maps: main roads are uncoloured but the route I want is a bright red line across the page.) People have not always wanted their areas to be mapped – preferring to remain under the official radar or fearing what easily accessible knowledge may bring to their land.

More personal maps: the 1930s London map which showed public toilets that were used as meeting places for gay men. Charles Booth’s 1889 map of London which marked each street on a poverty-prosperity scale. Then came GPS and all the data which can be gathered (as in the routes run by American soldiers using Strava that gave away locations of their bases in Afghanistan ) or routes that can be used by asylum seekers to cross vast distances with an encryption messaging app.

I’m glad I got the last space.

Victorian Radicals

I fancied a day out, so the Pre-Raphaelites became my spur yesterday. It’s hard to think of such familiar, over-ripe beauty-in-oils as “radical”, but they did consciously break with tradition in terms of technique and subject matter. (I didn’t notice anything about William Morris’s radical socialism though.) The exhibition started with yet another dull painting by William Etty to show what they were up against. There was also a light focus on Birmingham’s industrial role in spreading the “look” at a rather reduced price, along with the development – and bright colours – of aniline dyes.

I have discovered that Ford Madox Brown produced two versions of “Work”; Manchester has the original, larger version – which was a tremendous relief to me because I was certain I’d seen it the week before in the art gallery there! (There’s also another “Pretty Baa-Lambs” in the Ashmolean.) I saw again “The Last of England” (here twinned with a Windrush-era sketch of “The First of England”) and looked at his other works. I’m not sure of him as a great artist – but he was certainly a great chronicler in his hyper-real fashion and I will definitely go and have another look at his murals in Manchester Town Hall when it finally re-opens.

Speaking of duplicates . . . William Holman Hunt copied “May Morning”, and here it was framed in a circular copper sunburst by C R Ashbee. There were also biblical and Shakespearean subjects to add to the Arthurian one (Lady of Shallot) that I’d seen in Manchester – slightly undermining the “radical” theme.

William Morris prints, Burne-Jones nudes, a return to tempera painting, dresses and jewellery . . . all lovely to look at. (Particularly “Beauty and the Beast”, which erases the nightmare in a dream of gorgeousness.)

Beauty and the Beast, John Dickson Batten, 1904, tempera on canvas

William Morris Gallery

On the tube back from Pimlico I noticed that the Victoria line went all the way to Walthamstow . . . which set me to thinking of the William Morris house there, which I had kind of assumed was difficult to get to. Wrong.

So off I went. It was once the Morris family home and has an enormous collection of all things Morrissy. The usual stuff – designs, furnishings, paintings, printing press, socialism – well presented and explained. Frank Brangwyn popped up again: he was one of the founders of the gallery and donated much of his collection to it.

The current non-Morris exhibition is on Mingei – the Japanese term for folk craft. The term was first used in 1925 by Yanagi Soetsu as a kind of reaction to Japan and Korea’s industrialisation and westernisation. It looked with new eyes at everyday objects created by nameless craftsmen using natural materials, and a movement towards simplicity, informed by Zen Buddhism and even the Arts and Crafts Movement, grew in contemporary crafts. The objects on display were simple and beautiful – even the ragged patchwork (boro), which spoke of poverty and the need to recycle everything. (There were as many layers of irony in the exhibition as fabric in the patchwork.)

The gallery was not exactly what one might expect in Walthamstow. The area is more urban than the urbane Islington I walked around yesterday. It reminded me of living in bedsits with shared bathrooms a couple of lifetimes ago around Finsbury Park, and I realised that I was quite content with my surroundings at the time. They were good enough: my wish to go to other places was not to escape but to explore.